If you own a dog, you’ve been asked this question.

If you own a perfectly social dog who enjoys meeting new dogs and new people, you’ve probably never given this question a second thought (or, you’ve felt a little swell of pride as you happily responded, “Yes, very!”).

But what about all the owners of dogs who are fearful or uncomfortable with new people, new dogs, or new situations? The dogs who may cower or growl, lunge or snap, or even bite, if an unfamiliar person or dog invades their personal space too quickly?

For the owner of a fearful, frustrated, or anxious dog, those three small words – “Is he friendly?” – pack an emotional wallop: a rush of apprehension, a fretful look down at their beloved dog (the one who greets them every morning with a fiercely wagging tail and a million kisses), a tentative and sometimes apologetic “sort of/not really” response, and a hope that the person who asked the question will be gracious and just move along.

Because when a stranger asks, “Is he friendly?” what this owner hears is, “Is he a nice dog or a mean dog?” or, “Is he a good dog or a bad dog?” And that stinks. Because it feels terrible to say, “No, he’s not friendly,” and to feel like a complete stranger thinks your dog is mean, or bad, or poorly trained. And, because your dog can absolutely be a nice, good, friendly dog AND be uncomfortable meeting new people or dogs in certain situations.

We meet and work with these nice, good, friendly dogs all the time. They’re awesome and smart and silly. They love to play with toys and eat yummy treats. They enjoy pets and scratches and snuggling up on the couch with the people or dogs that they know and love. They just need a little (or a lot of) extra time to get familiar with new people and dogs, and they are most comfortable avoiding random interactions with strangers when out and about.

Change the Question

If you’re a person who has asked, “Is he friendly?” don’t feel too badly. We’ve ALL done it, and most likely, your intention was never to make anyone upset! The next time you spot a dog and owner who look like they might enjoy interacting with you, try something like this instead:

“Does your dog enjoy saying hello to new people, or would he prefer if I just let him do his own thing?”

We ask this, or something similar, when dogs and owners come to our facility for initial consultations. It puts the emphasis on what the dog wants, and specifically asks whether the dog likes meeting new people or dogs. It doesn’t call into question the dog’s overall friendliness. It also includes an alternative that is easy for the owner to choose (“he’d prefer to just do his own thing”) without having to directly tell you “No, he can’t say hello.”

If the above option feels a little wordy for you, try something like, “Would he like to say hello, or is he busy?”

Listen to the Owner and the Dog

Regardless of how the owner answers your question, be respectful of the dog, and of the owner’s response.

If the owner says, “Yes! He loves meeting new people,” invite the dog to approach you. If he approaches happily, pet him for a few seconds and then stop. Avoid leaning over, hugging, kissing, roughhousing, or staring into his eyes (these things can make even the most confident dog feel uncomfortable). If, when you stop petting him, the dog solicits more attention, repeat petting for a few seconds, then stopping. If you invite the dog to approach and he stays where he is, ducks or turns his head, or moves away from you, just smile kindly at the owner, tell them their dog is lovely, and continue on your way – this dog has just told you that he’s not interested in saying hello right now .

If the owner says, “Nah, he’d rather not,” then smile, say “Okay, no problem!” and move along. Don’t stare at the dog and try to talk to him; don’t say that you’re ‘a dog person’ so it’ll be fine; and don’t ask why you can’t say hello. Just be genuinely happy that this very lucky dog has an owner who is advocating for his comfort and wellbeing.

–Dedicated to all of the nice, good, friendly dogs we have the privilege of meeting, who just need a little extra time and space around new people; and to all of their incredible owners, who advocate for their dogs every single day, even when it’s difficult.

Happy Training!

Sarah Fraser, CDBC, CPDT-KA, KPA-CTP

Co-Founder

The post Is He Friendly? appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Sometimes, these behaviors are perfectly normal and nothing to be concerned about (for example, your dog yelling at the overly enthusiastic dog in the dog park to stop mounting him). Other times, they’re a sign that you and your dog need some help. Try asking yourself the following questions about your dog’s aggressive behavior:

• Is the behavior new and completely out of character?
• Is it escalating in frequency and/or intensity?
• Does it present a potential danger to you, other people, or other dogs?
• Does it seem unpredictable?
• Do you regularly find yourself in unavoidable situations where your dog is likely to behave aggressively?
• Does your dog’s behavior activate your Spidey-senses and make you feel like something is just not right, even if you can’t exactly put your finger on it?

If you answered yes to any of the above questions, read on. The following steps can help you get started along the path to a happier, safer, less stressful life for you and your dog:

Step 1: Get in the Judgement-Free zone by saying this: “It’s not all about how they’re raised.” Then say it again; “It’s not all about how they’re raised.” This is a myth that still persists throughout the dog community.

While it’s true that you are the path forward, it’s important to leave any feelings of guilt behind.

If you are struggling with this part, remember that your dog’s behavior is shaped by many things, including:

Learning History: Your dog is always learning; specifically, she is learning which behaviors are valuable (worth repeating) and which are not. Let’s consider a dog who develops the behavior of lunging and barking at other dogs while on leash walks. Why does it happen? Here’s one common example of how learning history comes into play:

In this example, your dog – let’s call him Freddie – is nervous of big dogs while on leash; he doesn’t lunge or bark or growl, but you’ve noticed he gets a little stiff during greetings. When on walks, the leash restricts Freddie’s option to move away from another dog if he feels uncertain (unlike when he is at daycare or at the dog park, where he is free to move away from dogs he doesn’t want to interact with).

One day, a big, friendly, rambunctious Great Dane puppy bounds up to Freddie on a walk and promptly jumps all over him; and for some reason – maybe because it’s rainy, maybe because he has a bit of an upset tummy, or maybe because this is the FOURTH TIME this Great Dane puppy has jumped all over him in the past week – Freddie gives a growl, and lunges toward the puppy. You swiftly move Freddie away from the puppy (obviously) and tell Freddie that his behavior is unacceptable! But in Freddie’s mind, something valuable just happened: “I lunged and barked, and that big scary puppy went away.”

Freddie tries out this potential new solution to his Big Dog Worries a few days later, except instead of waiting for a big dog to come within greeting distance, Freddie is proactive: he growls and lunges toward a large energetic dog who is walking by minding her business. Freddie’s lunging and barking has been reinforced (strengthened) because the dog keeps moving away (“Aha!” Freddie says, “I’m onto something!”).

Freddie continues to practice his new behavior more often, in more situations; his ‘solution’ is working, and so the behavior becomes more frequent over time. Within 3-6 months, Freddie is barking and lunging at almost all dogs while on-leash.

Whether you’re dealing with a Fearful Freddie, a Frustrated Frannie, or an Anxious Archie, it’s important to understand what your dog is getting from the aggressive behavior (e.g., I get to the keep the bone, I make the petting stop, I keep the mailman from murdering us all, etc.). If you are having trouble figuring out the function of your dog’s aggressive behavior, see Step 3 below.

Genetics: Yes, genetics play a role in behavior. In a nutshell, some dogs may be predisposed to being more anxious, or more fearful, or more easily frustrated, which can all potentially lead to unwanted aggressive behaviors. Remember, your dog is an individual and while we can influence behavior, dogs are still complex, autonomous living beings. Isn’t that why we love them?

Environment: This is a big one here in New York City. Frequently, we see dogs who had no aggression problems in the suburbs or rural area where they once lived, but the environmental pressures of the city (less space, more noise, more social interactions) can lead to a dog being more stressed in general, which can lead to the examples stated above.

We also sometimes see this when somebody moves from a less crowded neighborhood (somewhere quiet in Brooklyn) to a much more crowded neighborhood (the East Village in Manhattan).

Environment can also include lack of socialization during puppyhood (or improper socialization), or environments that aren’t suited for your particular dog (perhaps your dog is great at the dog park for 30 minutes but struggles when at day care for 8 hours).

Pain (and other medical issues): Yes, pain can be a major cause of aggression problems. This is especially important for dogs who may be acting differently than normal (behavior change came on quickly), are sick, or have a recent injury (or recovering from surgery like a spay or neuter).

It’s pretty easy to understand that being in pain can make one grumpy and agitated. This is one thing we always try to understand during a behavior consult, and frequently ask owners to check-in with their vet to make sure there is nothing medical that may be causing the problem.  You don’t always want to spend time and/or money on behavior modification if it’s really pain – or another underlying medical issue – causing the aggressive behavior (and many times, both health and behavior issues need to be addressed).

Step 2: Lower Your Risk  –  Now that you’re in the judgement-free zone , it’s time to immediately start taking action.

First, if your dog is breaking skin on people or dogs (or you think he or she has the potential to do so), the first thing you should do before doing anything else is muzzle training. By far, a muzzle is the most underrated and most underused tool in dog training; it can drastically lower liability risk and help keep the community and your dog safe.

Now, it’s fair to think that your dog won’t like it, and that she’ll look like the neighborhood Hannibal Lector. The good news is, your dog doesn’t know who Hannibal Lector is and you can make your dog enjoy wearing the muzzle! Frequently at Instinct, we call a muzzle a “hat” (and we always use properly fitting basket muzzles, such as Baskerville muzzles, that allow your dog to fully pant and breath, drink water and eat treats) and play fun games so that a dog seeks out the muzzle wants to put it on when its present.

There are many, many great resources out there on how to help your dog like wearing a muzzle. Our two favorites are:

The Muzzle Up Project

Chirag Patel’s Muzzle Training Video

When we see a dog who comes to a consult wearing a muzzle, our first thought is always “responsible owner.” There’s nothing to feel ashamed about, and many times it is the responsible thing to do. If you are feeling lonely about having to wear a muzzle, check out the cool community that the Muzzle Up Project has built on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TheMuzzleUpProject/

Whether or not your dog requires a muzzle, it’s important to limit their exposure to what triggers the aggressive behavior until you get to Step 3 below. This may mean taking them on a walking route where you encounter fewer dogs or people, or putting them away when guests come over (if they have stranger danger when somebody comes to the house). If your dog is resource guarding (the aggressive behavior occurs when she has yummy food or toys), you may want to remove access to toys or special treats that cause the issue, or feed them in a different room if it happens with their food bowl.

This isn’t forever, but it will help limit risk until you can work with a professional.

Step 3: Find Professional Help

There are many things in dog training you can do yourself or at home by watching YouTube videos or joining dog training Facebook groups. However, aggression issues are best worked on with the help of a professional*.

If you have a skilled behavior professional near you, it’s a really good idea to reach out to that person. In fact, it’s always a good idea to talk to about 3 professionals in your area and go with the one that with whom you are most comfortable. No one trainer is best for everyone; find the person that makes you and your dog the most comfortable in terms of competence and how they treat you.

When you contact a behavior professional, remember that an experienced behavior consultant or trainer should have experience with your particular issue, focus on helping your dog (and you!) feel more relaxed and better able to cope with the situation, and should be able to give you a ballpark range of number of lessons or program pricing. This can change once they do the initial consult or as the program progresses, but experienced trainers can generally ask good questions on a brief, 5-10 minute phone call to let you know if they can help, or if you should be referred straight to Veterinary Behaviorist.

If you are unsure about who may be able to help you in your neighborhood, you can go here to find a professional:

The International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior

If you can’t find a consultant in your area with the sites above, you can also try The Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers

Find someone you like and book a consult!

*If your dog’s behavior has changed very suddenly, your first visit should be to your veterinarian, as sudden changes in behavior are often linked to an underlying medical issue.

Step 4: Follow Instructions, Follow-through and Enjoy the Process!

This is incredibly important. Regardless if you do private lessons, a group class, or a board & train program, the training will not work if you don’t follow through.

Your homework each day shouldn’t take more than 10-20 minutes, and many exercises can be worked into everyday life (on walks, or when guests come over, etc.). In our experience, consistency of practice is more important than perfection. Honestly, dogs are great at figuring out what we want as long as we’re consistent (even if it’s slightly different than what you were told). Do your best, keep your consultant or trainer in the loop if you have questions, but stay consistent. Remember: have fun! If you’re tired or frustrated, put down the treat pouch and come back later. Training shouldn’t feel like a chore.

The longer we train, the more we love the process. This is a great chance to bond with your dog, improve their welfare, and give them the many benefits that training provides (confidence, improved communication, trust, etc.).

If your behavior consultant or trainer recommends that you speak with a Veterinary Behaviorist or your Veterinarian about your dog’s behavior, and the vet or vet behaviorist recommends behavior medication, please keep an open mind. In the appropriate situation, medication in conjunction with behavior modification can be a huge game changer for some dogs, and can really improve the outcome, and welfare for your dog.

There are many medications out there, and some work extremely well for certain behavior issues. Certainly, be aware of potential side effects, but also be aware of what the potential benefits are for you and your dog as well. It’s amazing the difference brain chemistry can make, and sometimes it can be lifesaving.

Step 5: Remember: Life Doesn’t Have to be Perfect to be Good

Perfection from a training program (my dog will NEVER be aggressive again, or my dog will ALWAYS be friendly) is not realistic and will only lead to disappointment and frustration.

However, in the vast majority of cases, things should get much (much) better if you follow-through and have good guidance. There will be good days, bad days, GREAT days and TERRIBLE days. It’s ok. It’s normal and part of the process.

What you are looking for is a trend over time; you should notice that your dog is generally becoming more and more relaxed, and that there is a reduction in intensity and frequency of the undesired behaviors.

For many dogs, management of the behavior issue will be lifelong and always require some vigilance. However, with proper behavior modification and management, the situations that used to be really stressful for you and your dog should become easier, more predictable and feel routine.

Finally, remember that just because your dog may struggle with certain situations, it doesn’t make her or him “bad.” By taking responsibility for your dog’s behavior, keeping your dog and the community safe, and helping both you and your dog become less stressed and more confident over time, I promise life will still be very good (and your dog will teach you many things that you wouldn’t have learned otherwise).

Brian Burton, CDBC KPA-CTP

Dedicated to our leash reactive Rat Terrier Mix who taught us how to be a better listener, more patient and more kind.

Sammy: 2009 – 2015

The post Aggressive Dog? 5 Steps To Get You Started appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

If you’re like most dog owners we meet, you care a LOT about your dog’s happiness and wellbeing. That’s awesome! But do you know for sure if your city dog is living the good life, by her standards?

Animal Welfare Science & The Five Freedoms: 

Animal welfare is a scientific field focused on assessing whether captive and companion animals are experiencing a good or poor quality of life, based on measures of the animal’s health, behavior, and emotional state. One common framework used to assess animal welfare is the Five Freedoms.

The first four freedoms are pretty straightforward. They don’t mean to suggest that your dog should never feel anxious or afraid, or that they can never get sick or have a grumbly tummy because dinner is served late (your dog may disagree with that last one!). Rather, they simply mean that your dog should not be in a chronic state of fear, distress, discomfort, etc.

But what about the fifth freedom, the freedom to express natural behavior? Let’s face it: city dogs have a lot of restrictions placed on their behavior. Too often, Very Important Dog Activities (VIDAs) like sniffing, digging, running, barking, chasing small fluffy critters, being able to move away from scary things, and laying about in the sunshine, are thwarted by short leashes, strange dogs, crowded streets, overly friendly strangers, and long days home alone. What’s a dog owner to do?

Good Welfare for City Dogs: How-To

Before you sublet your apartment, quit your job, and look for an idyllic house in the country for your best furry friend, try these 3 simple suggestions to provide your city dog with ample opportunities to engage in critically important natural dog behaviors.

1. Let them Sniff! If we had to pick ONE activity to maximize welfare for city dogs, it would be the opportunity to explore a naturally landscaped environment at their own pace.

How to do it: 3-5 times per week, hit up one of your city’s large parks (or, even better, a nearby hiking trail), and let your dog take you on an adventure*. We like to kick off these walks with a cue, such as “Go Sniff!” so the dog knows this is his time to explore and have fun. Allow your dog to navigate the environment at his own pace (even if he’s a smell-obsessed hound mix who is compelled to spend 10 minutes carefully examining every inch of a seemingly innocuous rock or tree stump).

*This is a fantastic activity to do off-leash, IF the area is safe and allows off-leash dogs, and if your dog is social with other dogs and people, and responds reliably to your cues. Otherwise, try using a longer leash for these walks to allow for good freedom of movement.

2. Find out which activity your dog LOVES, and do more of it, in a setting where your dog feels comfortable.

This sounds simple enough, but city dogs are often asked to engage in activities they don’t particularly love, in settings they aren’t particularly thrilled about. A great example is the well-meaning owner who takes their dog to the dog park every day to play fetch; the dog loves fetch but doesn’t particularly like being around other dogs (in fact, she sometimes gets in scuffles at the park when another dog approaches to try to get in on the game of fetch), but the owner doesn’t know where else to go to let the dog off-leash to play.

How to do it:

• Ball-crazy dog? Play fetch in your apartment, tossing ball or soft toy down your hallway or into another room; or, take your dog to a quiet area of a local park on a long line, at a time when there are no other dogs around.
• Squirrel-crazy dog? Purchase a Flirt Pole and play with your dog inside, or outside in a quiet area of a local park on a long line, when there are no other dogs around.
• Sniff-crazy dog? These dogs LOVE activity #1, above, but you can also play scent games inside, or take them to a local park and scatter some treats on the grass for them to find.
• Dog-lovin’ dog? Dog parks can be difficult environments for a lot of dogs. If you choose to go, do so at times when it’s less busy, and when you can first observe the other dogs and determine whether the group dynamics and play styles are suitable for your dog. Other great options: meet up with a dog-owning friend and take your dogs for a walk together; or, find a well-run daycare and send your dog for a ½ day, 1-2 times per week (not all dogs are suitable for daycare; typically, younger, more social dogs tend to enjoy it most).
• People-lovin’ dog? Take your dog to the pet store, the hardware store, the bank, or to hang out with you on a bench at a local park. For dogs who truly enjoy meeting and interacting with new people, these are great places to find folks who are eager to say hello to your pup and make them feel extra-special.
• Forrest Gump dog? If your dog LOVES to run, find a way to let her do it on a regular basis. Take up jogging, find a Dog Runner, or go to the park and practice repetitions of Stay/Come on a long line (this will give your dog a chance to sprint toward you as fast as they can, and you’ll get to practice two important life skills!).
• Lazy-bones dog? Find a comfy spot in the grass, or on a bench, at your local park, and enjoy some quality lounging time together.
• Water dog? Most cities have one or more dog beaches; if your dog doesn’t enjoy mingling with lots of strange dogs, you can look for spots like NYC’s Water4Dogs, to give your dog opportunities to splash in private.

3. Take note of what your dog doesn’t like, and help them avoid it

This is an important one. It’s tempting to think of the freedom to engage in natural behaviors as synonymous with the ability to do things that are fun and enjoyable (case in point, all the activities listed in #2, above). And that’s true, but it also includes the ability to engage in natural avoidance behaviors. For example, your dog may dislike saying hello to other dogs on-leash; the leash can make it very difficult for a dog to successfully engage in natural avoidance behaviors, unless we as owners know what to look for, and how to help.

How to do it:

• First, brush up on dog body language, including more subtle signals of stress/avoidance. This is a great video reviewing some of the more subtle signs of stress in dogs:

• Next, start watching your dog when out on a walk. Take note of the situations that seem to make him more uncomfortable, and help him out by providing some additional distance from those stressful stimuli.* One simple technique to use in the city is the Arc-By, whereby an owner arcs AWAY from the scary stimuli as they pass, providing their dog with more space and allowing them to avoid an unwanted interaction:

*There are lots of things we can do, through training & behavior modification, to help dogs feel more comfortable in situations that currently make them feel anxious or fearful, but it’s still critically important to listen to their cues and help them avoid/move away from uncomfortable situations as they go through the training process.

If you’re interested in learning more about animal welfare science, consider signing up for the awesome free course provided by Coursera.

Happy Training!

-Sarah Fraser, CDBC, KPA-CTP, CPDT-KA

Co-Founder

The post Does your city dog have good welfare? appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.