If you’re working on a behavior modification plan to help your dog with fear, anxiety, or aggression issues, chances are you’ve pondered (or asked your trainer) at least one of the following questions along the way:

• Is all this “management” really necessary right now? Aren’t we just avoiding the issue?
• How do these exercises relate to the problems we’re having?
• Shouldn’t I maybe test out some trickier scenarios, just to see how my dog does?
• How long are we going to be working on this? Will we ever really be finished?

Those are totally understandable questions. Behavior modification is a foreign process to most of us; as a society, we’re generally far more knowledgeable about the treatment of physical health issues than we are about the treatment of behavioral and emotional ones.

As luck would have it, the process of working through a behavior modification program with your dog shares some similarities to going through the recovery process for a physical health issue, like an injury.

Let’s consider these two theoretical scenarios, one a physical injury, and one a behavior issue:

#1. PHYSICAL INJURY: Mary Sprains Her Ankle

Mary is a cross-country runner. During a race, she rolls her ankle while navigating a rocky trail. She’d been experiencing some low-level ankle pain for a while, but this SERIOUSLY hurts. She hobbles into a hospital emergency room grimacing in pain. She is examined by the doctor, receives x-rays, and is diagnosed with a badly sprained ankle.

#2. BEHAVIOR ISSUE: Fluffy is Displaying Dog-Directed Aggression & Reactivity

Over the past year, Fluffy the dog has started getting in fights at the dog park and displaying increasing levels of reactivity toward dogs on walks. Fluffy is actively scanning for other dogs on walks; reactions are intense, and she takes a long time to recover after a blow-up. A behavior consultant meets with the owner, Sam, and determines Fluffy’s aggressive behavior is motivated by a combination of fear and frustration.

It’s pretty apparent that each of these individuals needs some treatment to help improve their current situation. In each case, the treatment will occur in phases. Each phase – from acute care to rehabilitation to long-term prevention & management – is a necessary and important part of a successful treatment plan. Exactly how long each phase lasts will depend on the individual.

Treatment Phase 1: ACUTE CARE

Implement immediate, temporary interventions to prevent injury or behavior issue from worsening; allow the body (or brain) to get to a place where physical therapy or behavior modification can effectively begin.

ACUTE CARE for MARY

MARY is given a compression wrap and crutches. For the next 5-7 days, she is told to avoid putting weight on the ankle. She is to rest, apply ice every 20 minutes during the day, keep the ankle elevated when possible, and take anti-inflammatories to help reduce swelling so that healing can occur, and physical therapy can begin.

ACUTE CARE FOR FLUFFY

SAM is advised to stop taking Fluffy to the dog park and to avoid walking routes where there is any chance of encountering other dogs. She is told to give Fluffy a “stress vacation,” avoiding stressful experiences while providing positive, relaxing activities. The goal is to reduce any chronically elevated stress levels so that learning can occur, and behavior modification can begin. Sam is also advised to contact a local veterinary behaviorist to determine whether medication would be helpful in setting the stage for learning to occur.

Treatment Phase 2: REHABILITATION

Physical therapy or behavior modification begins, focused on building/rebuilding the individual’s relevant functional abilities. Rehab occurs gradually to reduce the risk of re-injury/regression.

REHABILITATION for MARY

MARY starts her physical therapy. She begins with low-impact stretching exercises. Over weeks and months, she slowly and carefully builds up to more rigorous, high-impact physical exercises. Throughout, the focus is on rebuilding strength and flexibility in her injured ankle and the rest of her body.

REHABILITATION FOR FLUFFY

SAM starts working with Fluffy on confidence building, frustration tolerance & attention on leash. She also starts Fluffy on a behavior medication to help her better cope with stress and frustration. Over weeks and months, she works on desensitization and counterconditioning around other dogs on walks to help Fluffy feel more relaxed and comfortable when she encounters other dogs at increasingly close distances. They also work on slow, careful one-on-one introductions to appropriate doggy playmates at the behavior consultant’s training facility.

Treatment Phase 3: PREVENTION & MANAGEMENT

Ongoing maintenance exercises serve to retain progress made during rehabilitation. Semi-permanent or permanent alterations to lifestyle and/or environment mitigate risks of re-injury/regression.

PREVENTION & MANAGEMENT for MARY

MARY is running regularly again! She wears an ankle wrap and new, more supportive shoes on runs to provide her ankle with extra stability, and she avoids rocky and uneven trails. During humid weather, she takes pain medication to manage some mild arthritis in her ankle, and she takes a few days off to rest if her ankle starts bothering her. She goes to the gym and does regular strength training and stretching exercises to reduce risk of reinjury.

PREVENTION & MANAGEMENT FOR FLUFFY

SAM and Fluffy go on daily walks and are able to pass most dogs successfully! Sam uses a front-clip harness and brings treats with her on walks so she can continue to practice & reinforce the skills they worked on during behavior modification. Fluffy still takes daily behavior medication, but the dose has been reduced. Sam avoids walking routes & times of day when dog traffic is especially high. She no longer visits the dog park and instead arranges playdates with a couple of dog friends in her neighborhood. Sam follows a specific protocol when introducing Fluffy to a new dog, and Fluffy wears a comfy basket muzzle until the initial “get to know you” period has passed. There are certain types of dogs that Fluffy just doesn’t enjoy, and Sam avoids those dogs and does not attempt introductions.

Additional Considerations

If you’ve made it this far, congratulations! You’re about to learn a couple of other important parallels hidden within in the descriptions of the treatment phases we just outlined together:

1. SETBACKS HAPPEN.

Sometimes during treatment, we misjudge our progress and our abilities, or we’re faced with an unanticipated, unavoidable situation we’re not yet ready for. As a result, we have setbacks in progress that require us to step back a phase (or spend more time in the current phase) before progressing again. Let’s use our friends, Mary, Sam & Fluffy, as examples again:

MARY’S SETBACK

About 6 weeks into physical therapy, Mary went on vacation and tried running along the beach one morning. About one mile in, she recognized her mistake; her ankle was throbbing. She needed to rest for a few days and take meds to alleviate the swelling and pain. Her physical therapist instructed her to go back to her “Week 4” exercises, then work her way back up to where she was pre-beach run.

FLUFFY’S SETBACK

Fluffy was making some exciting, positive strides during her behavior modification program. She was becoming less reactive & hypervigilant on walks, and she seemed more relaxed at home too. After about 4 weeks of practice, Sam decided to try taking Fluffy back to the dog park, just to see if she did better after the 4-week break. About 10 minutes into the visit, Fluffy got into a fight and Sam left in tears. For the next few days, Fluffy was far more reactive to other dogs on walks, even at far distances. Sam took a step back and worked on some of their foundation exercises, and after about a week and a half, the team got back where they were prior to the dog park visit.

Setbacks happen to EVERYONE. All we can do is take a breath, recognize that it’s usually not the end of the world, and get back to work.

2. LIMITATIONS CAN EXIST.

Depending on the severity of, and/or genetic predisposition toward the issue, there can be lifelong limitations on the amount of progress to be made. Long term management and modifications to our environment, activities, and routines may be required to reduce the risk of re-injury/regression. Let’s review some limitations that were mentioned in Treatment Phase 3: Prevention & Management for both Mary and Fluffy:

MARY’S LIMITATIONS

• Mary is no longer able to safely run on rocky or rough terrain
• She is required to wear an ankle wrap, along with extra-supportive shoes
• She is required to do regular strength and flexibility conditioning
• She sometimes needs meds to help with the arthritis that resulted from the injury

FLUFFY’S LIMITATIONS

• Fluffy requires ongoing reinforcement of her new, more appropriate behaviors
• Sam avoids very high traffic dog areas
• She and Fluffy will no longer visit the dog park
• Fluffy wears a muzzle when being introduced to new dog friends; not all dogs are candidates to become Fluffy’s friends
• Fluffy continues to take daily behavior medication to help with her low frustration tolerance and her inherent difficulty coping with stress

Limitations are a very real and normal part of the process, both for physical injuries and for behavior issues. If we focus only on the limitations, it’s easy to get discouraged. But the most important parts of Mary’s, and Sam & Fluffy’s, stories is that things are a whole lot better than they were before. Mary is RUNNING again! And Sam & Fluffy are enjoying their walks together, and they have a safe, fun way to meet new dog friends. And that’s AMAZING. The focus is on making things better, not perfect.

Final Thoughts

Behavior modification for complex behavior issues is challenging but also unbelievably rewarding and worth it. When we better understand the end-to-end process (and what “finished” really looks like), it can make the journey a whole lot less frustrating and make it easier to celebrate our dogs’ incremental improvements.

Keep up the great work, and Happy Training!

The post What Can Sprained Ankles Teach Us About Dog Behavior Modification? appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Just like with people, a dog’s emotions have a big influence on their behavior. If they no longer feel fearful, or anxious, or frustrated in the presence of a trigger, the reason to react goes away. Working to change a dog’s emotional response to their triggers is one of the most important parts of a behavior modification program, and it’s done through a process called Counterconditioning & Desensitization.

Ready for Action: Understanding the Stress Response

When your dog is faced with a trigger that is too close for comfort, the negative emotions they experience set off a stress response in the body that says “Potential Danger Nearby! Prepare for Action!” The physiological changes that happen next are involuntary, meaning your dog has no control over them.

During a stress response, adrenaline and cortisol are released into the blood stream. These hormones cause your dog to experience a range of INVOLUNTARY physiological responses: their heart beats faster, their rate of breathing increases, their blood pressure rises. The adrenaline in their system causes tiny airways in the lungs to open wider, allowing more oxygen into the body. Heightened alertness and greater sensitivity to sights and sounds follow, as does an elevated startle response.

Our dogs’ brains and bodies have prepared them for action in an effort to help them stay safe. It’s easy to see why the next thing that often happens is lunging, barking, growling, or snapping at the trigger that prompted those negative emotions and physiological stress responses in the first place.

Changing the Emotional Response

Counterconditioning & Desensitization (CC/DS) uses principles of classical conditioning to change the emotional responses our dogs have to their triggers, from negative, to neutral or positive. Remember, no negative feelings, no more reactions!

CC/DS is very similar to exposure therapy in humans, which involves helping a patient overcome something that causes them fear or anxiety by exposing them to the source of their anxiety a little at a time, starting with low intensity exposure and gradually building up to full intensity or “the real deal.”

With dogs, we do more than just exposing them to a trigger during CC/DS sessions. We also add something pleasant or appetitive – like turkey or hot dogs! – in the presence of the trigger to further aid in the learning process.

The Key to Effective Counterconditioning & Desensitization

The sweet spot for Counterconditioning & Desensitization is when your dog is just at threshold in relation to their trigger. “At threshold” is the point where your dog notices the trigger in the environment and displays mild concern but is still able to disengage and move onto other things.

By allowing your dog to observe their trigger at this low intensity (and providing them extra yummy treats at the same time), we’re allowing their mild feelings of concern to dissipate – instead of escalating into a full-blown stress response – and be replaced with feelings of relaxation. With repetition, the presence of a trigger at that intensity will no longer cause even mild concern.

The goal with controlled CC/DS sessions is to extinguish any negative emotional responses to the trigger at the current level of intensity, before moving on and increasing the level of intensity. This allows us to make progress in a way that is efficient and low-stress for the learner, and that addresses the root cause of our dog’s aggressive or reactive behavior.

Counterconditioning & Desensitization in Action

This video from our free Leash Reactivity video series reviews how to use counterconditioning and desensitization techniques for dogs who display on-leash reactivity – lunging, barking, and growling at people or other dogs.

Additional Resources

If you’d like to learn more, check out our free online course for leash reactive dogs! It’s packed with additional info and videos like this, and includes a step-by-step training plan to help improve your leash reactive dog’s behavior on walks.

• The Leash Reactive Dog Course: onlineschool.instinctdogtraining.com

Happy Training!

The post Counterconditioning & Desensitization: Changing an Emotional Response appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Dr. Emily Levine, DVM, DACVB is a board-certified veterinary behaviorist, co-owner of Instinct Englewood and owner of the Animal Behavior Clinic of NJ.  ***Remember, veterinarians and veterinary behaviorists are the only individuals qualified to discuss and recommend behavior medications for your pet.*** 

1. THEY EXIST

Yes, there are behavior medications for dogs. In veterinary medicine, many of the same behavior medications used in people arealso used in pets. Different classes of medication can be used for various behavioral conditions, from fear, anxiety, and phobias, to compulsive disorders, cognitive dysfunction, and arousal and frustration issues.

2. THEY’RE BACKED BY SCIENCE

There is a robust body of scientific literature spanning decades that supports the efficacy of behavior medications in a wide variety of species, including dogs. Medications work by altering neurotransmission (how the brain transfers information), which affects the products made by your dog’s brain cells. These different products, in turn, influence many different aspects of neurobiology. Changes that result from medication can include:

• Growth of new neurons and formation of new neural pathways
• Increased or decreased amounts of neurotransmitters such as serotonin, dopamine, and norepinephrine
• More efficient information processing
• Ability to learn more easily

3. THEY MUST BE RECOMMENDED, PRESCRIBED, AND MONITORED BY A VETERINARIAN

Behavior medications can only be prescribed by veterinarians and veterinary behaviorists. Ideally, it is best to work with a board certified veterinary behaviorist (DACVB) or an experienced veterinarian with a special interest in behavioral disorders; these specialized professionals can help assess the pros and cons of various medications for each individual patient, and can also help with the important process of ruling out medical conditions prior to diagnosing a behavioral disorder. There are many endocrine disorders, neurologic disorders, gastrointestinal disorders, dermatological disorders, and musculoskeletal disorders that can contribute to or cause behavior issues.

4. THEY’RE NOT FOR EVERY DOG

Many dogs with fear, anxiety, or arousal issues can make wonderful progress through appropriate training efforts, and do not require medication as part of a behavior modification plan. Medications should be considered as part of a behavior program only when a qualified medical professional – a veterinarian or veterinary behaviorist – determines that the behavioral condition of your pet is not falling within normal parameters and/or is not responding to appropriate behavior modification efforts.

When might a veterinarian recommend behavior medication(s)?

1. When a dog is regularly experiencing levels of fear, anxiety, or arousal such that it is significantly impacting the dog’s quality of life or impairing the dog’s ability to learn.
   • The dog experiences instances of severe panic and fear
   • The dog experiences generalized anxiety, in which they are moderately anxious or worried in a wide variety of situations
2. When a dog’s physiological responses to specific events or stimuli are so intense as to make learning without the help of medication difficult or impossible.
   • The dog quickly becomes over-aroused, agitated, or frustrated
   • The dog is slow to recover after becoming aroused

5. THEY CAN IMPROVE YOUR DOG’S QUALITY OF LIFE

For dogs who experience severe episodes of anxiety, fear, and panic, medication can provide relief from mental anguish and suffering. If a dog regularly reacts to certain fear- or anxiety-inducing situations or stimuli by trembling, drooling, urinating or defecating, attempting to flee, or inflicting harm to themselves or others, this dog is experiencing a welfare crisis; it is our responsibility as pet owners to act immediately to provide relief as quickly as possible. Appropriate behavior medications can be a needed and necessary first step in helping to ease the mental pain experienced by these dogs.

6. THEY CAN MAKE LEARNING POSSIBLE

Medications can help properly regulate a dog’s internal, physiological state so that learning can take place. Some dogs – often those who become easily over-aroused, agitated, or frustrated – regularly experience an internal state that prevents them from being able to learn new behaviors and responses. In these situations, their body, just like a diabetic with insulin, may need medications to help regulate their internal environment. Think of this as “Setting the Stage” for learning to occur and for training & behavior modification efforts to be successfully absorbed.

7. THEY CAN HELP YOUR DOG DO MORE, and LESS

If your dog’s prescribed medication is working as it should, you should expect to see the following types of behavioral changes:

• MORE:
  • Your dog is comfortable MORE often
  • Your dog is happier MORE often
  • Your dog is confident and able to cope with their environment MORE often
  • Your dog is MORE easily able to learn new behaviors & habits
  • You and your dog can do MORE together
• LESS:
  • Your dog’s reactions or behaviors are LESS intense, LESS frequent, or shorter in duration than before
  • Your dog takes LESS time to recover following an episode, reaction, or stressful event

Sleepy, Dopey, Grumpy? Remember, the ONLY reason your veterinarian will prescribe medication for a dog’s behavior is to improve and enhance their quality of life. If you start your dog on medication and they appear drowsy, drugged, out of it, etc., your dog’s veterinarian needs to be notified to make appropriate adjustments.

8. THEY’RE NOT A QUICK FIX

If your dog is prescribed medication, it is important to understand that it is a process, just like it is for people going through therapy. We are fortunate today to have many different medication options, and it may take time to find the right one(s) for your pet. The best way to determine efficacy is to monitor behavioral progress as you are going through the appropriate science-based behavior modification and training. And while there are some conditions for which medications in and of themselves can make a big difference quickly, there are other conditions for which the results are more nuanced and subtle, especially at first. Further, certain classes of medications can take 4 weeks to fully take effect, while others may work much faster. For these reasons, it is imperative that an experienced veterinarian or a veterinary behaviorist (DACVB) is actively monitoring and adjusting medications.

9. THEY’RE NOT A FOREVER THING…Usually

The goal is always to wean your dog off the medication(s), with the hope that once your dog is less anxious, aroused, aggressive, etc., they can now learn and retain new, healthy behaviors through training & behavior modification techniques. Over time, this new learning builds new neuronal connections in the brain, such that medication is no longer needed. There are some dogs, however, for whom medication is a lifelong requirement. Put simply, these dogs are similar to a person with diabetes who requires insulin – their body just doesn’t make something it requires to function properly. How fortunate for these dogs that there is help available through veterinary medicine.

This blog post was written by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Emily Levine, DVM, DACVB.

Click to download a pdf version here: Behavior Medication Handout.

The post Behavior Medication for Dogs: 9 Things You Should Know appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

If you own a dog, you’ve been asked this question.

If you own a perfectly social dog who enjoys meeting new dogs and new people, you’ve probably never given this question a second thought (or, you’ve felt a little swell of pride as you happily responded, “Yes, very!”).

But what about all the owners of dogs who are fearful or uncomfortable with new people, new dogs, or new situations? The dogs who may cower or growl, lunge or snap, or even bite, if an unfamiliar person or dog invades their personal space too quickly?

For the owner of a fearful, frustrated, or anxious dog, those three small words – “Is he friendly?” – pack an emotional wallop: a rush of apprehension, a fretful look down at their beloved dog (the one who greets them every morning with a fiercely wagging tail and a million kisses), a tentative and sometimes apologetic “sort of/not really” response, and a hope that the person who asked the question will be gracious and just move along.

Because when a stranger asks, “Is he friendly?” what this owner hears is, “Is he a nice dog or a mean dog?” or, “Is he a good dog or a bad dog?” And that stinks. Because it feels terrible to say, “No, he’s not friendly,” and to feel like a complete stranger thinks your dog is mean, or bad, or poorly trained. And, because your dog can absolutely be a nice, good, friendly dog AND be uncomfortable meeting new people or dogs in certain situations.

We meet and work with these nice, good, friendly dogs all the time. They’re awesome and smart and silly. They love to play with toys and eat yummy treats. They enjoy pets and scratches and snuggling up on the couch with the people or dogs that they know and love. They just need a little (or a lot of) extra time to get familiar with new people and dogs, and they are most comfortable avoiding random interactions with strangers when out and about.

Change the Question

If you’re a person who has asked, “Is he friendly?” don’t feel too badly. We’ve ALL done it, and most likely, your intention was never to make anyone upset! The next time you spot a dog and owner who look like they might enjoy interacting with you, try something like this instead:

“Does your dog enjoy saying hello to new people, or would he prefer if I just let him do his own thing?”

We ask this, or something similar, when dogs and owners come to our facility for initial consultations. It puts the emphasis on what the dog wants, and specifically asks whether the dog likes meeting new people or dogs. It doesn’t call into question the dog’s overall friendliness. It also includes an alternative that is easy for the owner to choose (“he’d prefer to just do his own thing”) without having to directly tell you “No, he can’t say hello.”

If the above option feels a little wordy for you, try something like, “Would he like to say hello, or is he busy?”

Listen to the Owner and the Dog

Regardless of how the owner answers your question, be respectful of the dog, and of the owner’s response.

If the owner says, “Yes! He loves meeting new people,” invite the dog to approach you. If he approaches happily, pet him for a few seconds and then stop. Avoid leaning over, hugging, kissing, roughhousing, or staring into his eyes (these things can make even the most confident dog feel uncomfortable). If, when you stop petting him, the dog solicits more attention, repeat petting for a few seconds, then stopping. If you invite the dog to approach and he stays where he is, ducks or turns his head, or moves away from you, just smile kindly at the owner, tell them their dog is lovely, and continue on your way – this dog has just told you that he’s not interested in saying hello right now .

If the owner says, “Nah, he’d rather not,” then smile, say “Okay, no problem!” and move along. Don’t stare at the dog and try to talk to him; don’t say that you’re ‘a dog person’ so it’ll be fine; and don’t ask why you can’t say hello. Just be genuinely happy that this very lucky dog has an owner who is advocating for his comfort and wellbeing.

–Dedicated to all of the nice, good, friendly dogs we have the privilege of meeting, who just need a little extra time and space around new people; and to all of their incredible owners, who advocate for their dogs every single day, even when it’s difficult.

Happy Training!

Sarah Fraser, CDBC, CPDT-KA, KPA-CTP

Co-Founder

The post Is He Friendly? appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Sometimes, these behaviors are perfectly normal and nothing to be concerned about (for example, your dog yelling at the overly enthusiastic dog in the dog park to stop mounting him). Other times, they’re a sign that you and your dog need some help. Try asking yourself the following questions about your dog’s aggressive behavior:

• Is the behavior new and completely out of character?
• Is it escalating in frequency and/or intensity?
• Does it present a potential danger to you, other people, or other dogs?
• Does it seem unpredictable?
• Do you regularly find yourself in unavoidable situations where your dog is likely to behave aggressively?
• Does your dog’s behavior activate your Spidey-senses and make you feel like something is just not right, even if you can’t exactly put your finger on it?

If you answered yes to any of the above questions, read on. The following steps can help you get started along the path to a happier, safer, less stressful life for you and your dog:

Step 1: Get in the Judgement-Free zone by saying this: “It’s not all about how they’re raised.” Then say it again; “It’s not all about how they’re raised.” This is a myth that still persists throughout the dog community.

While it’s true that you are the path forward, it’s important to leave any feelings of guilt behind.

If you are struggling with this part, remember that your dog’s behavior is shaped by many things, including:

Learning History: Your dog is always learning; specifically, she is learning which behaviors are valuable (worth repeating) and which are not. Let’s consider a dog who develops the behavior of lunging and barking at other dogs while on leash walks. Why does it happen? Here’s one common example of how learning history comes into play:

In this example, your dog – let’s call him Freddie – is nervous of big dogs while on leash; he doesn’t lunge or bark or growl, but you’ve noticed he gets a little stiff during greetings. When on walks, the leash restricts Freddie’s option to move away from another dog if he feels uncertain (unlike when he is at daycare or at the dog park, where he is free to move away from dogs he doesn’t want to interact with).

One day, a big, friendly, rambunctious Great Dane puppy bounds up to Freddie on a walk and promptly jumps all over him; and for some reason – maybe because it’s rainy, maybe because he has a bit of an upset tummy, or maybe because this is the FOURTH TIME this Great Dane puppy has jumped all over him in the past week – Freddie gives a growl, and lunges toward the puppy. You swiftly move Freddie away from the puppy (obviously) and tell Freddie that his behavior is unacceptable! But in Freddie’s mind, something valuable just happened: “I lunged and barked, and that big scary puppy went away.”

Freddie tries out this potential new solution to his Big Dog Worries a few days later, except instead of waiting for a big dog to come within greeting distance, Freddie is proactive: he growls and lunges toward a large energetic dog who is walking by minding her business. Freddie’s lunging and barking has been reinforced (strengthened) because the dog keeps moving away (“Aha!” Freddie says, “I’m onto something!”).

Freddie continues to practice his new behavior more often, in more situations; his ‘solution’ is working, and so the behavior becomes more frequent over time. Within 3-6 months, Freddie is barking and lunging at almost all dogs while on-leash.

Whether you’re dealing with a Fearful Freddie, a Frustrated Frannie, or an Anxious Archie, it’s important to understand what your dog is getting from the aggressive behavior (e.g., I get to the keep the bone, I make the petting stop, I keep the mailman from murdering us all, etc.). If you are having trouble figuring out the function of your dog’s aggressive behavior, see Step 3 below.

Genetics: Yes, genetics play a role in behavior. In a nutshell, some dogs may be predisposed to being more anxious, or more fearful, or more easily frustrated, which can all potentially lead to unwanted aggressive behaviors. Remember, your dog is an individual and while we can influence behavior, dogs are still complex, autonomous living beings. Isn’t that why we love them?

Environment: This is a big one here in New York City. Frequently, we see dogs who had no aggression problems in the suburbs or rural area where they once lived, but the environmental pressures of the city (less space, more noise, more social interactions) can lead to a dog being more stressed in general, which can lead to the examples stated above.

We also sometimes see this when somebody moves from a less crowded neighborhood (somewhere quiet in Brooklyn) to a much more crowded neighborhood (the East Village in Manhattan).

Environment can also include lack of socialization during puppyhood (or improper socialization), or environments that aren’t suited for your particular dog (perhaps your dog is great at the dog park for 30 minutes but struggles when at day care for 8 hours).

Pain (and other medical issues): Yes, pain can be a major cause of aggression problems. This is especially important for dogs who may be acting differently than normal (behavior change came on quickly), are sick, or have a recent injury (or recovering from surgery like a spay or neuter).

It’s pretty easy to understand that being in pain can make one grumpy and agitated. This is one thing we always try to understand during a behavior consult, and frequently ask owners to check-in with their vet to make sure there is nothing medical that may be causing the problem.  You don’t always want to spend time and/or money on behavior modification if it’s really pain – or another underlying medical issue – causing the aggressive behavior (and many times, both health and behavior issues need to be addressed).

Step 2: Lower Your Risk  –  Now that you’re in the judgement-free zone , it’s time to immediately start taking action.

First, if your dog is breaking skin on people or dogs (or you think he or she has the potential to do so), the first thing you should do before doing anything else is muzzle training. By far, a muzzle is the most underrated and most underused tool in dog training; it can drastically lower liability risk and help keep the community and your dog safe.

Now, it’s fair to think that your dog won’t like it, and that she’ll look like the neighborhood Hannibal Lector. The good news is, your dog doesn’t know who Hannibal Lector is and you can make your dog enjoy wearing the muzzle! Frequently at Instinct, we call a muzzle a “hat” (and we always use properly fitting basket muzzles, such as Baskerville muzzles, that allow your dog to fully pant and breath, drink water and eat treats) and play fun games so that a dog seeks out the muzzle wants to put it on when its present.

There are many, many great resources out there on how to help your dog like wearing a muzzle. Our two favorites are:

The Muzzle Up Project

Chirag Patel’s Muzzle Training Video

When we see a dog who comes to a consult wearing a muzzle, our first thought is always “responsible owner.” There’s nothing to feel ashamed about, and many times it is the responsible thing to do. If you are feeling lonely about having to wear a muzzle, check out the cool community that the Muzzle Up Project has built on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TheMuzzleUpProject/

Whether or not your dog requires a muzzle, it’s important to limit their exposure to what triggers the aggressive behavior until you get to Step 3 below. This may mean taking them on a walking route where you encounter fewer dogs or people, or putting them away when guests come over (if they have stranger danger when somebody comes to the house). If your dog is resource guarding (the aggressive behavior occurs when she has yummy food or toys), you may want to remove access to toys or special treats that cause the issue, or feed them in a different room if it happens with their food bowl.

This isn’t forever, but it will help limit risk until you can work with a professional.

Step 3: Find Professional Help

There are many things in dog training you can do yourself or at home by watching YouTube videos or joining dog training Facebook groups. However, aggression issues are best worked on with the help of a professional*.

If you have a skilled behavior professional near you, it’s a really good idea to reach out to that person. In fact, it’s always a good idea to talk to about 3 professionals in your area and go with the one that with whom you are most comfortable. No one trainer is best for everyone; find the person that makes you and your dog the most comfortable in terms of competence and how they treat you.

When you contact a behavior professional, remember that an experienced behavior consultant or trainer should have experience with your particular issue, focus on helping your dog (and you!) feel more relaxed and better able to cope with the situation, and should be able to give you a ballpark range of number of lessons or program pricing. This can change once they do the initial consult or as the program progresses, but experienced trainers can generally ask good questions on a brief, 5-10 minute phone call to let you know if they can help, or if you should be referred straight to Veterinary Behaviorist.

If you are unsure about who may be able to help you in your neighborhood, you can go here to find a professional:

The International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior

If you can’t find a consultant in your area with the sites above, you can also try The Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers

Find someone you like and book a consult!

*If your dog’s behavior has changed very suddenly, your first visit should be to your veterinarian, as sudden changes in behavior are often linked to an underlying medical issue.

Step 4: Follow Instructions, Follow-through and Enjoy the Process!

This is incredibly important. Regardless if you do private lessons, a group class, or a board & train program, the training will not work if you don’t follow through.

Your homework each day shouldn’t take more than 10-20 minutes, and many exercises can be worked into everyday life (on walks, or when guests come over, etc.). In our experience, consistency of practice is more important than perfection. Honestly, dogs are great at figuring out what we want as long as we’re consistent (even if it’s slightly different than what you were told). Do your best, keep your consultant or trainer in the loop if you have questions, but stay consistent. Remember: have fun! If you’re tired or frustrated, put down the treat pouch and come back later. Training shouldn’t feel like a chore.

The longer we train, the more we love the process. This is a great chance to bond with your dog, improve their welfare, and give them the many benefits that training provides (confidence, improved communication, trust, etc.).

If your behavior consultant or trainer recommends that you speak with a Veterinary Behaviorist or your Veterinarian about your dog’s behavior, and the vet or vet behaviorist recommends behavior medication, please keep an open mind. In the appropriate situation, medication in conjunction with behavior modification can be a huge game changer for some dogs, and can really improve the outcome, and welfare for your dog.

There are many medications out there, and some work extremely well for certain behavior issues. Certainly, be aware of potential side effects, but also be aware of what the potential benefits are for you and your dog as well. It’s amazing the difference brain chemistry can make, and sometimes it can be lifesaving.

Step 5: Remember: Life Doesn’t Have to be Perfect to be Good

Perfection from a training program (my dog will NEVER be aggressive again, or my dog will ALWAYS be friendly) is not realistic and will only lead to disappointment and frustration.

However, in the vast majority of cases, things should get much (much) better if you follow-through and have good guidance. There will be good days, bad days, GREAT days and TERRIBLE days. It’s ok. It’s normal and part of the process.

What you are looking for is a trend over time; you should notice that your dog is generally becoming more and more relaxed, and that there is a reduction in intensity and frequency of the undesired behaviors.

For many dogs, management of the behavior issue will be lifelong and always require some vigilance. However, with proper behavior modification and management, the situations that used to be really stressful for you and your dog should become easier, more predictable and feel routine.

Finally, remember that just because your dog may struggle with certain situations, it doesn’t make her or him “bad.” By taking responsibility for your dog’s behavior, keeping your dog and the community safe, and helping both you and your dog become less stressed and more confident over time, I promise life will still be very good (and your dog will teach you many things that you wouldn’t have learned otherwise).

Brian Burton, CDBC KPA-CTP

Dedicated to our leash reactive Rat Terrier Mix who taught us how to be a better listener, more patient and more kind.

Sammy: 2009 – 2015

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