Having a new puppy is EXCITING!

It can also be overwhelming and stressful. We get it. Raising a puppy is hard work. And if you’re like most puppy parents, you’re worried about getting everything ‘just right’.

First things first: You’re doing a GREAT job!

And second? We got you. You don’t need to navigate puppyhood alone.

Practical, Positive Help from Trusted Puppy Experts

Our certified behavior consultants and board certified veterinary behaviorists created this essential Puppy Parenting Guidebook to help you feel confident, prepared, and supported every step of the way.

We cover topics like:

• Socialization Do’s & Don’ts
• Crate Training
• Potty Training
• Biting & Nipping
• Essential Gear

…and SO much more!

Ready to Get Started?

Download our completely FREE Puppy Parenting Guidebook below:

Need In-Person Support?

We’re here to help!

Our certified, veterinarian-recommended trainers offer fully-customized puppy training support in the form of Private Coaching, Home School Programs, and Puppy Raising Camps.

All of our programs include lifetime support via free & low-cost alumni classes; an exclusive, Alumni-only Facebook group; and access to free weekly drop-in Q&A sessions with Instinct trainers.

Find your nearest Instinct Location; we’d love to connect and learn more about how we can help you & your puppy live a happier life together.

The post The Ultimate Puppy Parenting Guidebook appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Potty training a puppy takes effort and consistency, but it is generally a fairly straightforward process if you follow some simple rules and guidelines.

KEY #1: MAINTAIN A PREDICTABLE SCHEDULE

Maintaining a consistent, predictable schedule helps your puppy get into the routine of potty training and makes it easier for them to build good habits. In this section, we’ll review how to:

• 1.a) Follow the Potty Training Flow Chart
• 1.b) Set up a schedule that works for your pup’s age
• 1.c) Keep a potty training log that ensures your whole family is keeping your pup on a consistent schedule
• 1.d) Conduct potty breaks in a way that ensures your pup learns to ‘go’ quickly when you take them outside

1.a) POTTY TRAINING FLOW CHART:

Your pup’s potty training schedule should repeat this cycle of events throughout the day:

Note that during potty training, your puppy should only ever be in one of three situations:

• in their crate or pen resting
• on a supervised potty break
• enjoying some supervised free time, which can include any combo of a walk, yard time, indoor play time, and indoor tether/settle time.

1.b) FREQUENCY OF POTTY BREAKS BY AGE

*Meals can be fed at the end of a free time period, just before a crate time period.

**In addition to their regularly scheduled potty breaks, remember that puppies often need to pee or poop:

• Immediately after running around and playing
• Soon after taking a drink or eating a meal
• Immediately after waking up from a nap

1.c) DAILY PUPPY SCHEDULE LOG

Use the two charts above (Potty-Training Flow Chart & Frequency of Potty Breaks by Age chart) to create potty training schedule for your puppy. Then, use the daily puppy schedule log below to track your pup’s progress!

1.d) HOW-TO: TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL POTTY BREAKS

There are a few simple tricks you can use to avoid accidents and get your puppy to go quickly and consistently each time you take them out for a potty break:

• Don’t Dilly Dally. Take your puppy outside immediately after they come out of their crate or confinement area.
• Keep your puppy on a leash, even if you’re just going out in your backyard. This ensures you can keep a close eye on your puppy, AND it makes it easier for you to praise & reward them promptly when they do pee or poop.
• Stick to a small area. If you walk from place to place, your pup will constantly be distracted by new sights & smells, and it will take them longer to go potty. Wait until after they pee and poop, then praise and reward them with the chance to explore.
• Get ‘em moving. If your pup is on “poop strike”, try doing a quick little run-around with them in a small area; the activity can stimulate them to go.

KEY #2: PROVIDE PROPER SUPERVISION & CONFINEMENT AREAS

Providing proper supervision during free time AND setting up a designated confinement/rest area can mean the difference between a successful potty training program and an unsuccessful one. This section will provide you with simple guidelines to:

• 2.a) Structure free time in a way reduces the likelihood of accidents
• 2.b) Set up both short-term & medium-term confinement areas to reduce accidents, build bladder control, AND ensure your pup is getting the rest they need

2.a) HOW-TO: TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL FREE TIME

Remember: based on the Potty Training Flow Chart, your pup is ALWAYS in one of three situations during potty training: in their crate/confinement area, on a potty break, or enjoying some free time. We have TWO simple rules to follow to ensure free time doesn’t become ‘free-for-all’ time:

1. Free time = supervised time; this means:

• • Your pup needs to be in the same room as you
  • You need to have two eyes on your puppy at all times when they are out for free time
  • Your pup should go in their crate or pen if you need to step outside even for just a minute

2. Free time = active play + tether time/settle time;
   • For many puppies, the ideal ratio of active play to settle time during free time is about 1:1
   • For example, if your 3-month-old puppy currently does about 45 minutes of free time before going into her crate for a nap, that free time might be split into 20 minutes of active play & training, then 20 minutes of quietly chewing on a bone next to you while on a tether
   • Providing a mix of both active play AND settle time ensures that:
     • your pup can actually hold it until the next potty break (remember, physical activity can stimulate them to need to go pee or poop)
     • your pup doesn’t inadvertently learn that free time = non-stop party time
     • your pup doesn’t become overstimulated, leading to increased mouthiness/nipping (if you are struggling with puppy nipping & biting, check out our guide to reducing puppy biting).

2.b) HOW-TO: TIPS FOR SETTING UP CONFINEMENT AREAS

There are two types of confinement areas we use during potty training: a) a crate, and b) a pen or gated, puppy-proofed area. The crate and the pen serve different purposes. Most puppy owners find it easiest to have both options available, while other owners find they need only one or the other, based on their schedule and their individual puppy. Below are guidelines for when & how to use a crate vs. a pen during potty training:

1. The Crate.

• • What: a plastic or wire kennel designed to keep a dog or puppy safely & securely confined and out of trouble when an owner is not present.
  • Why: a crate can be helpful during potty training because, if sized correctly, it can encourage a pup to learn to hold their bladder at times when an owner may not be able to directly supervise the pup. This cuts down on potty accidents, thus speeding up potty training. As an added benefit, getting your pup comfortable in a crate means they won’t be stressed if they ever go to board at a vet’s office or kennel.
  • How: a crate should be large enough for a puppy to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably, but not so large that the pup can comfortably create both a “potty area” and a “sleeping area” inside the crate. The crate can be made comfy by putting a fleece blanket or crate pad inside, along with a couple of toys and bones that are safe for the pup to have without direct supervision. Some pups find it easier to settle if a lightweight sheet is draped over the front of the crate. Just be sure to leave the backside uncovered to allow plenty of airflow.
  • When: a crate should be used for short term confinement only, never for longer than your pup is able to hold their bladder, and ideally, never more than 3-4 hours at a time (even if they can hold it longer than that).

When it Comes to the Crate, Don’t Overdo It. A crate is a really helpful training tool but be careful not to overuse it. Crates are small, confined spaces, and while they are perfectly okay to use for short periods of time throughout the day, we don’t want our pups to have to spend too much time in them.

2. The Pen or Gated Area

• • What: think of this as similar to a play pen for (human) babies. It is a safe, secure area where the pup can move around and play with toys when an owner is unable to directly supervise or is not present. But this pen has an indoor potty area in the form of a wee wee pad or litter box.
  • Why: a pen keeps your puppy safe & secure, just like a crate, when you are unable to supervise them. But, unlike a crate, a pen also provides your pup with access to a designated indoor spot to go potty
  • How: a pen or gated area should include a few things: the dog’s (open) crate with a comfy bed or blanket inside; a wee wee pad in a tray (to discourage chewing/tearing) or litter box; a bowl of fresh water, and several safe toys and bones. The pen/gate should be securely fixed in place and high enough that your pup can’t scale over it.
  • When: a pen can be used for medium-term confinement, when your puppy will need to wait longer than they are currently able to hold it, to receive a potty break. This ensures they are not soiling their crate/themselves, and they are still practicing going in an “approved” potty spot.
    • Examples: if your 2-month-old pup needs to go out for a potty break every 90 minutes, but you need to be out of the house for 2.5 hours, you can leave your puppy in their pen with access to a wee wee pad, instead of in their crate. Same goes for overnight: if your pup can only last about 6 hours overnight, but you need a solid 8 hrs to feel functional, have your pup sleep in a pen with a wee wee pad overnight until they get a little older.

Your Pen or Gated Area Can Replace Your Crate. As your pup ages, you can often ditch the crate entirely, and use the pen/gated area as your pup’s primary confinement area when they are left alone (until they are old enough to be trusted not to chew up your pillows and get into things that might harm them!). When you notice that your puppy is no longer making use of the wee wee pads during pen time, that’s a good cue that you can remove the pads altogether and swap out closed crate time for pen time.

KEY #3: USE A PATIENT, POSITIVE APPROACH

This is the shortest section in our potty training basics guide, but it is one of the most important! Why? Because it is a reminder that:

• 3.a) Your puppy is still a baby
• 3.b) Potty training is a process

3.a) Your Puppy is Still a Baby.

It is sometimes easy to forget just how young our pups are when we bring them home. But they really are just babies, still developing control over their bodily functions while they also attempt to learn how to navigate a new environment, new people, and whole new set of silly human rules. Stay positive. Reward and celebrate with your pup when they do the right thing. Stay calm and avoid scolding if they have an accident in the house – you want to remain a safe, trusted place for your pup to turn as they grow up.

3.b) Potty Training is a Process.

It takes time, and your progress will not be a straight line. Your puppy WILL have accidents in the house. Sometimes, it will be 100% your fault because you waited too long to take them out, you missed a clear signal that they were about to go, or your attention got diverted by life and your pup went without you noticing. Other times, you won’t know exactly why. Maybe your pup had a bigger drink than normal. Maybe they were just feeling a little bit yucky or extra sleepy, and they forgot themselves for a moment.

No matter the reason, just remember, this is normal! So long as you are doing your best to stick to the schedule, and so long as you are seeing a positive trend, you and your pull WILL be okay! Have patience, and look for progress, not perfection :).

One last reminder: there is additional help available!

The information in this guidebook is standardized advice that works for the majority of puppies. If you are following all of the guidelines enclosed here but you are still struggling, don’t worry! Some pups take a little longer to mature and develop bladder control. Some pups are nervous outside and thus are more likely to want to eliminate inside the home. And some pups are just plain tricky to potty train. If you are feeling frustrated, your primary care veterinarian and/or a professional trainer can provide you with support beyond what is outlined here, with guidance that is customized especially to your puppy and their individual needs.

Happy Training!

The post How to Potty Train Your Puppy appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Puppies. So soft and cute. So snuggly and playful. And sometimes, SO BITEY. While 99.5% of puppy biting isn’t meant to cause us harm, those needle-sharp teeth can still really hurt! It’s not surprising that puppy biting is a behavior many owners want to curb ASAP.

A certain amount of bitey, mouthy behavior is an expected part of puppyhood. But, there are some common reasons puppies display biting and mouthing behaviors beyond just normal puppy development. The good news? Once you know the reasons, there are some simple adjustments you can make to decrease those bitey behaviors AND help your puppy feel better at the same time. It’s a win-win!

Read on for 6 common reasons 8- to 20-week-old puppies sometimes act like pint-sized landsharks.

#1. They are TIRED

Being overtired is one of the most common reasons we see puppies exhibit overly bitey and nippy behavior. Young puppies need 16-18 hours of sleep each day. Much like a human baby or toddler, puppies get fussy and cranky when they are tired, but they don’t yet have enough self-awareness to recognize they need a nap to feel better.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• Give your puppy scheduled rest periods and quiet times throughout the day
• If you have a very lively, active household, make sure your pup’s resting place – whether a a crate, an exercise pen, or a gated, puppy-proofed room – is in a quiet, low traffic spot where they won’t be constantly disturbed by household commotion.

#2. They are OVEREXCITED

Young puppies have not yet learned to regulate their emotional arousal. When then become overly excited or aroused, they start to lose inhibition and self-control, which leads to them getting extra bitey.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• Imagine your pup’s excitability on a scale of 1 to 10, where 1 is totally calm and relaxed, and 10 is a full-on case of the puppy zoomies.
• When you see your pup’s excitement level creeping up to a 7 or 8 during play, help them learn to stop, take a breath, and calm down a bit.
• You can do this by modeling calm, relaxed behavior yourself: slow down your movements, blink your eyes softly, and stay quiet or speak only using low, slow tones.
• With practice, your pup will quickly learn to take their cues from you that it’s times to take a break and settle down.
• You can also practice playing “Go Wild & Freeze” with your pup, like Trainer Lauren is doing in this video with Camper Donnie:

#3. They are FRUSTRATED

Just as very young children may feel the desire to hit, slap, or kick when frustrated, young puppies will often use their teeth to display frustration and anger. It is easy to view frustrated biting as a puppy being obnoxious or “bratty.” But try to remember that frustration is a really icky emotion, and it is often born from feelings of confusion and/or lack of control about a situation.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• If you see your puppy becoming frustrated, first try to identify the source of frustration (for example, being restrained, being brushed, having a toy taken away, etc.).
• Then, recreate easier versions of that scenario, and reward your puppy for doing whatever it is you’d like them to do INSTEAD of biting and nipping. In the video below, Camper Gizmo learns to accept brushing without getting frustrated and mouthy.
• In addition, impulse control games are a great way to help your puppy learn more productive, socially appropriate ways to cope with feelings of frustration.

#4. Your actions say “BITE ME”

There are some things we humans do that are the equivalent of wearing a great big “Bite Me” sign on our backs! Here are a couple of common ones:

1. Sitting on the floor for prolonged periods of time with an excited, active puppy. Why? When you sit on the floor, you are likely to become a living, breathing climbing apparatus, complete with all kinds of fun knobs and doohickies on which to gnaw and pull: your nose, ears, hair, the strings on your sweatshirt, and more.
2. Making high-pitched squealing noises and quick, jerky movements. There is a reason puppy toys have squeakers . When we make high-pitched noises and quickly pull our hands away from a puppy, they instinctively respond with chasing and nipping.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• Instead of sitting cross-legged on the floor, try sitting on your knees. This makes it easy for you to quickly straighten up and remove access to your lap if your pup becomes nippy.
• Avoid making too many squeal-y, overly excited sounds around your puppy (though a higher pitched “pup-pup-pup” or kissy noise is a great way to entice your puppy to come to you). And, keep your movements controlled. If your puppy nips at you, try freezing instead of jerking your hand away.

#5. They are saying “NO THANKS” to petting

Many puppies will become bitey or mouthy when you pet them for too long. Sometimes, this can be chalked up to the pup getting overstimulated from all the scritch-scratching, but many other times, your pup is asking you – in the best way they know how – to please give them a break.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

We don’t want puppies to learn that biting and nipping is an effective way to make human hands go away. Instead, we want to teach pups that they can say, “yes, please” or “no, thank you” to petting without having to use their teeth.

Try this:

• First, only pet your puppy when they are already calm and relaxed (remember reason #2 – overexcited puppies are more likely to be bitey).
• Pet your puppy for just 3-5 seconds at a time, then pause and take your hands away.
• If your pup nuzzles or moves toward your hand, pet them again. But, if they move away or just quietly lay in place, they are telling you they don’t really care about or want pets at that time.
• Over time, you can start to present your open hands to your pup as an invitation that asks, “Would you like some pets?” If they approach and curl into you, that’s a great big, “Yes please!” But if they don’t, they are saying “No thank you” in a manner that is far less painful than pointy puppy teeth. Watch the video below to learn petting do’s and don’ts that work for both puppies AND adult dogs:

#6. They are just being a PUPPY

Viewing the world as one big chew toy is a normal part of puppy development. Your puppy WILL sometimes try to chew on your fingers and nip your pant legs, even if they are not feeling sleepy, overstimulated, or frustrated.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• Since your puppy IS going to bite/chew/gnaw on something, be sure to provide them with access to a variety of safe toys, chews, and bones in different textures. This makes it easy for them to make good choices when deciding where to put their needle-sharp teeth.
• In addition, providing the opportunity to play with other puppies is a great way to fulfill your puppy’s need to bite and mouth as part of play.

BONUS REASON: They have to POOP!

If your puppy suddenly becomes wild-eyed and starts zooming around, biting at your hands, feet, and clothes, they very well may have to go potty. We’re not sure exactly why, but many puppies get a little whacky right before the have to poop.

Want our handy “6 Reasons Your Puppy Is Biting You” infographic? Just right click and save the image below!

Happy Training!

The post 6 Reasons Your Puppy is Biting You appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.